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- HOW DO I MEASURE MY FIREPLACE?
- GENERAL FIREPLACE QUESTIONS
- TECHNICAL FIREPLACE QUESTIONS
- GENERATOR QUESTIONS
HOW DO I MEASURE MY FIREPLACE?
- How do I measure my fireplace for an insert?
- Take everything out of the fireplace, including any wood racks or fire bricks. You will need to measure from the actual stone of the mortared fireplace and not from any temporary additions. Measure from the center of the deepest part of the back of the fireplace to the front edge. You can do this by holding a stick flat against both sides of the fireplace, parallel with the floor. Now hold the measuring tape against the back of the fireplace and see where it touches the stick. This is the depth of your fireplace. Find the height simply by measuring the distance from the top of the actual opening of the fireplace straight down to the floor. If your fireplace is arched, you will need to measure from the shortest point down. Take the measurement from side to side of the fireplace for the width. Again, if the opening is not square, take the shortest measurement as the width. Include the measurement of your hearth when you gather all these figures. The representative will need to know how much space you have coming out into your room to determine if your fireplace is ready for a insert.
- How do I measure my fireplace for glass doors?
- First determine if your fireplace is a factory built prefabricated fireplace (zero-clearance) or a masonry type fireplace. The easy way to tell is to look at the chimney. If you have an all masonry chimney (brick & mortar with clay tile liners) then you have what is considered a masonry fireplace. If your chimney is a metal chimney pipe (usually with a round chimney cap) then you have a pre-fabricated fireplace.
- Measuring Masonry Fireplaces
- Be sure to take all measurements to the nearest 1/16" using a steel tape measure. For complex custom applications, a photograph of the fireplace will be very helpful. Be sure to look for projecting bricks, rotary damper handles, or any other issues that may cause a problem when mounting your fireplace door.
- There are two types fit, overlap fit and inside fit. The overlap fit is when the fireplace door is larger than the fireplace opening and the door will overlap the brick, marble, etc. An inside fit is when the fireplace door fits inside the fireplace opening and will be flush with the brick, marble, etc. The most common is the overlap fit but if you have rough field stone or bricks protruding, then the inside fit may be more appropriate. The inside fit requires more precise measuring and is used with custom enclosures only. All stock doors utilize an overlap fit. In general, you will usually obtain a better fit and easier installation when you use the overlap fit, when possible.
- Overlap Fit
- Measure the width of the opening at the top and again at the bottom. We need the minimum and maximum width. Next, measure the height of the opening from the hearth (where the enclosure will sit) to the top of the fireplace opening. If there is no hearth extension or you have a raised firebox, you will need to overlap the bottom of the opening (picture frame mount). To aid in this installation, you will need to use a suspension bar. The suspension bar drops down 5/8", therefore adding 5/8" to the effective opening.
- Inside Fit
- Measure the width of the opening at the top and again at the bottom. We need the minimum width. Next, measure the height of the opening from the hearth (where the enclosure will sit) to both the bottom of the lintel bar, and to the bottom of the finishing material (brick, marble, etc.)
- Notes on Inside Fit Enclosures:
- Width - For example, if the top width is 42" and the bottom width is 41 1/2", we will make the enclosure 41 1/4" wide allowing 1/8" clearance tolerance on each side. This means that at the top, there would be a 3/8" gap between the side panel and the fireplace opening on each side. Generally the clearance gaps can be filled from the backside of the frame using high temperature RTV silicone. If the gaps become excessive (as in a stone fireplace), it may be necessary to mortar in the enclosure. Factory tolerance of a fireplace door is generally + or - 1/32".
- Height - If you are planning on installing the enclosure under the brick, the face of the lintel bar must be back far enough from the face of the fireplace for the door to fit, otherwise the lintel will keep the enclosure from going in all the way flush. The distance from the face of the fireplace to the face of the lintel bar must be indicated in the area provided on the custom order form before we can begin processing your order.
- Measuring Zero-Clearance Fireplaces
- Determine the manufacturer and model number of the fireplace. This information is usually located high on the inside wall of the fireplace above the refractory panels or behind the mesh curtain on the inset return. Once this information is obtained, check to see if the fireplace door you are looking at has a replacement door for that model.
- Custom Z-Door Measuring: Measure the width and height of the steel opening where the enclosure will fit. Do not measure the finish material in front of the fireplace; brick, stone, marble, etc. You may need to remove the mesh track to install the Z-Door, so measure accordingly. It is very important not to modify or remove any other component of the fireplace. Determine if Air Studs or an Air Draft Bar should be used. The Air Stud will not add any thickness to the enclosure, and is used when there is an "ash lip" in the refractory or there is not enough inset depth. The Air Draft Bar is used more with "masonry appearance" type zero clearance fireplaces. The Air Draft Bar will add 5/8" thickness to the enclosure, making the enclosure extend forward from the fireplace. Air Stud Example: If the inset is 1", and the thickness of the enclosure is 1 1/8", then the enclosure will extend forward from the face of the fireplace 1/8".
- How do I measure my fireplace for gas logs?
- By measuring the front width, back wall, depth and height of your firebox, you can determine what size log set you will need. The chart below can be used as a guide to select correct log set size. Log set sizing charts vary somewhat by manufacturer so you should check with your hearth dealer for the chart that matches the manufacturer you've selected.
- How do I measure my fireplace for grates?
- Fireplace grates are an essential element of every fireplace and can have a huge impact on the overall performance of your heating unit. There are a number of factors to consider before purchasing this type of fireplace accessory. Determining the appropriate size and material of your grate is very important when purchasing one of these items.
- Measuring your fireplace in order to ensure you purchase the appropriate size is a crucial element in the success of your grate. To determine the size of grate your fireplace requires you must measure both the front and back widths of your fireplace. Your grate should be 6" smaller than your total fireplace width and at least 3" smaller than your fireplace's total depth. Following these requirements will ensure you choose a fireplace grate that corresponds with the size of your fireplace. Failure to measure correctly can result in an ineffective fireplace grate.
GENERAL FIREPLACE QUESTIONS
- Q: Does a fireplace increase the value of a home?
- A: Fireplaces do add value. The exact amount depends on the part of the country where you live. Studies have shown that in some cases a fireplace can produce a 130% return on your investment when you decide to sell.
- Q: How much heat do fireplaces really produce?
- A: A gas fireplace will give off more heat than wood burning if you have the right type of glass to absorb and distribute heat after the fire is out. A fire that puts out 21,000 BTU has an efficiency of approximately 70%, which is enough to heat a 1,000 square foot area easily. If you plan to use your fireplace as your primary heat source, you should definitely have a thermostat installed.
- Q: What types of fireplaces are there?
- A: Wood burning, gas burning and electric.
- Q: What is the difference between wood burning and gas burning fireplaces?
- A: Wood burning fireplaces are made to burn either wood or manufactured logs. Gas burning fireplaces can only burn gas and come complete with logs, burners and igniters. Wood burning fireplaces can be converted with after-market gas logs.
- Q: What types of wood burning fireplaces are there?
- A: Radiant and circulating.
TECHNICAL FIREPLACE QUESTIONS
- Q: What is the difference between radiant and circulating fireplaces?
- A: Radiant fireplaces have no visible louvers. Non-combustible finishing material can be installed to the very edge of the fireplace opening. Circulating fireplaces are slightly more energy efficient, and have louvers above and below the fireplace opening, which are used to circulate heated air.
- Q: What types of gas burning fireplaces are there?
- A: B-Vent, Direct Vent and Vent Free.
- Q: What is the difference between B-Vent, Direct Vent and Vent free fireplaces?
- A: B-Vent Fireplaces rely on natural draft and must be vented upward through the roof. Direct Vent Can be installed virtually anywhere in the house. Combustion air comes from outside the home, and 100% of the exhaust is expelled outside the home. Direct vents do not interfere with indoor air quality. They can be vented horizontally through a wall or vertically up through the roof. Vent Free fireplaces require no vent at all, but are not approved for use in California.
- Q: What is an electric fireplace?
- A: An electric fireplace is a fireplace which operates totally by electricity. There is no flame present, only a source of light which simulates flame.
- Q: What is the difference between an insert, a fireplace and gas logs?
- A: A fireplace is either masonry or a factory built (zero clearance) unit for burning wood or gas. An insert is designed to be placed into an existing masonry or factory built fireplace. Inserts are designed to enhance the operation and appearance of an existing wood burning fireplace. Gas log sets are made to be placed in a fireplace and hooked up to a gas line to simulate the look of wood logs.
- Q: What is zero clearance?
- A: A zero clearance fireplace is a factory-built fireplace that is constructed so that it can be installed, safely and legally, adjacent to combustible material.
- Q: What kind of piping do I use?
- A: Always use manufacturer-approved piping.
- Q: What if I can’t find the original manufacturer’s piping?
- A: Keep looking. If you do not use the correct piping you can void warranties, fail inspection and void insurance coverage.
- Q: If my bricks are cracked can I burn wood?
- A: If the cracks are bigger than the tip of a graphite pencil, it is not recommended that you burn wood.
- Q: What is “Remote ready”?
- A: Remote ready means that the appliance is equipped with a gas valve that can be controlled by a remote. A “Remote ready” appliance does not come with a remote.
- Q: Where is the best place to purchase a Stove or Fireplace?
- A: FireComfort.com
GENERATOR QUESTIONS
- Q: I’m on the fence about getting a Generator - how do I justify the cost?
- A: One burst pipe would cost you more than your generator. Your home is your biggest asset, with your valuables inside. Think about the peace of mind that you’d get from controlling your own power. We’re not just talking about the inconvenience of no lights or TV for a couple of hours. In an extended outage there’s the danger of flooded basements when sump pumps don’t come on, spoiled food, no well water, and septic issues. Not to mention businesses being unable to accept credit cards and having no security system.
- Q: What’s the difference between a portable and a standby Generator?
- A: While they both provide power during an outage, a standby generator will turn on automatically. The standby unit connects to your regular natural gas or propane service and produces electricity as soon as it senses an outage. It operates automatically so it protects your home even when you’re away. When power returns, the standby generator turns off. It also runs a weekly self-test to ensure it’s in working order.
- Q: How can I be sure my generator will work when I need it?
- A: An automatic standby generator will do an automatic weekly test of your system. This allows you to verify that your generator is in peak operating condition at all times. A built-in battery charger ensures that the battery remains at an optimum performance level. Portable generators should also be started and run for 10-15 minutes each week. Gasoline should be treated with an additive if it is going to sit for more than a month.
- Q: What will a Generator power?
- A: Generators are available in a wide range of sizes. You can use a portable generator by just plugging things directly into it, or wire a manual transfer switch into your electrical system to power selected circuits (typically 6-8). An automatic standby generator can supply power to the electrical circuits of your home or business through an automatic transfer switch. The air cooled line from Generac/Guardian can be purchased with a built-in load center so you can select the number of circuits you want to protect (typically 8-16) and match it to the appropriate generator system. Everything on those circuits will be protected. It will power furnaces, air conditioners, well pumps, water heaters and other appliances that are hard wired into your electrical panel. A full-house transfer switch is also an option when you chose a generator that can handle your entire electrical load.
- Q: What size Generator do I need?
- A: Every home or business owner’s requirements are different. Most homeowners can back up their essentials with a 5kW to a 17kW air cooled generator. If you’re running central air conditioning, you'll need a 14kW to 20kW generator. If you have a large home or business and you want everything on you might need to move up to a liquid cooled 22kW or larger.
- Q: What’s the difference between air-cooled and liquid-cooled standby generators?
- A: Air-cooled standby units use engines that Generac designs and manufactures specifically for their generators. Volume production helps keep cost down, making their air-cooled generators the most affordable. They cover essential circuits and back-up power needs in most residential applications. Liquid-cooled units use automotive style engines for increased horsepower. This makes them ideal for larger requirements like whole-house power coverage, larger homes and commercial applications.
- Q: How loud are standby back-up generators?
- A: This depends on the size and design of the power system you choose. Generac/Guardian air cooled generators create noise levels between 62- 72 decibels (dB). Compare that to:
- 15dB....................whisper
- 50-75dB..............air conditioner
- 60-95dB..............hair dryer
- 80-90dB..............food processor
- 85dB....................vacuum cleaner
- 90dB....................lawnmower
- 110dB..................car horn
- 120dB..................jet engine
- Q: What fuel do I need to run a generator?
- A: All Generac/Guardian home standby generators can be fueled by propane (LP) or natural gas. Portable generators are designed to be fueled by gasoline only.
- Q: What upkeep does a generator need?
- A: Just like your car, a commitment must be made to properly maintain this electricity-generating machine. Periodic maintenance is necessary to ensure reliability and longevity. Depending on usage, a tune up and oil change should typically be done every 6 to 24 months.
- Q: How long do generators last?
- A: A properly maintained generator should provide 15-20 years of operation under standby conditions.
- Q: Where is the best place to purchase a Generator?
- A: FireComfort.com
Frequently Asked Questions
Liquid cooled generators are as quiet as a car.
